This 1950s-style cropped sweater is based on Bugs Bunny’s disguise in the marvelous classic Warner Brothers short “Rabbit Seasoning.” It is one of several cartoons in which Bugs and Daffy Duck each try to convince Elmer Fudd to shoot the other. When Bugs dons this sweater, along with a wig and lipstick, Elmer is smitten! Poor Daffy. You can view the short here.
The real thing (if it wasn’t a cartoon) would most likely be knitted flat in pieces and seamed, with set-in sleeves, in a super-fine (by which I mean yarn weight) angora. This version is designed for the modern knitter, knitted top-down in one piece with minimal seaming, in a worsted weight wool-cotton blend.
The wide, square neckline and slightly puffed sleeves make this simple sweater look deceptively complex.
Gauge
20sts/28rws at 4” in stockinette on US 6 / 4mm needles
Sizes and Measurements
XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL) shown in size M
Fits (bust size)
28-30” (32-34”, 36-38”, 40-42”, 44-46”, 48-50”)
Actual Measurements (bust size)
27” (31”, 35”, 39”, 43”, 47”)
Sizing notes:
If your bust is larger than a C cup, use your high bust measurement, not your full bust measurement. Measure around the top of your bust, just below the armpit, to determine your size.
Instructions are included to adjust the fit for larger busts.
This sweater is intended to be very form-fitting, and includes one to three inches of negative ease (shown with about one inch).
Materials
- Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece [80% cotton / 20% wool, 215yd / 197m per 100g skein]; color: 210, Tea Rose; 2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5) skeins
- US 6 / 4mm circular needle, 24 inch for sizes XS-S (32 inches for size M-L, 40 inches for size XL-XXL)
- US 3 / 3.25mm circular needle, 24 inch for sizes XS-S-M (32 inch for sizes L-XL-XXL)
- 4 Stitch markers
- Waste yarn or spare circular needles to hold sleeve stitches
- Waste yarn or spare circular needle to hold body stitches
- Tapestry needle
Directions
(Popknits uses knittinghelp.com's standard abbreviations)
Special Stitch Instructions
Single cast on, or backward loop: This method enables a clean pick-up of stitches for the neckline ribbing and ensures that the picked up stitches will line up with the existing stitches. There is a nice brief video demonstration of this method at Knitting Help.
KRL and KLL: I chose this increase because it creates a much neater line than the standard kfb increase.
KRL: knit into the stitch below the stitch on your left needle, then knit the stitch.
KLL: knit the stitch, then knit into the stitch two stitches below the new stitch (you will knit into the back loop). This sounds MUCH more complicated than it is! There is a simple demonstration video at Knitting Help. If you like to really understand your knitting I recommend Cat Bordhi’s wonderful video on YouTube.
Crochet Crab Stitch: This is a backward single crochet, worked left to right. Start with a slip stitch: insert your crochet hook into an edge stitch; wrap yarn around hook and pull through—one loop on hook; Wrap yarn around the hook and pull through first loop. Now work crab stitch: insert your crochet hook into the next stitch to the right; wrap yarn around the hook and pull through—two loops on hook; wrap yarn again and pull this loop through the two on the hook. Insert your hook into next stitch to the right and repeat. There is a video that shows this technique here, though it shows it on a crocheted piece rather than knitted.
Neckline/Yoke
With size US6 needle and using the single, or backward loop, cast-on method, cast on 48 (54, 70, 76, 96, 114) stitches.
Row 1: (For this row only, knit all stitches through back loop.) Knit 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 6), pm, k 10 (10, 12, 12, 18, 22), pm, k 24 (30, 38, 44, 48, 58), pm, k 10 (10, 12, 12, 18, 22), pm, k 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 6)
Row 2 and all even number rows (until further notice): purl back across all stitches.
Row 3 and all odd numbered rows except row 5: k to one stitch before marker. KRL (increase by knitting into the stitch below, then knitting stitch). Slip marker, KLL (increase by working stitch, then knitting into the back of the stitch two below the one just worked). See notes for detailed instructions.
Row 5: Increase sleeve stitches to create slightly puffed sleeve as follows. Work front stitches and raglan increases as normal. KRL 10 (10, 12, 12, 18, 22) times, work raglan increase as normal. Work across stitches for back, work raglan increases as normal. KLL 10 (10, 12, 12, 18, 22) times, work raglan increases and front stitches as normal.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 20 (22, 23, 25, 28) times, for a total of 21 (23, 24, 26, 28, 29) increases. Work row 2 one more time. There will be 23 (25, 28, 30, 34, 35) stitches across each front, 62 (66, 72, 76, 92, 102) for each sleeve, and 66 (76, 86, 106, 116) for the back. Your raglan seam should measure about 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) inches.
Divide sleeves:
Work to one stitch before first sleeve marker. Slip stitch to right needle. Slip all sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, removing markers. (Larger busts only: leave one marker at each underarm to mark the sides of your sweater.) Move slipped stitch back to left-hand needle and k2tog. Work to next sleeve marker and repeat. Work to end. Do not turn work.
Cast-on for front:
Using the single, or backward loop, cast on method, CO 26 (32, 36, 42, 46, 52) stitches. Place marker and join work for knitting in the round. You now have 136 (156, 176, 196, 216, 236) stitches for the body. On the first round after this cast-on, you will knit these new stitches through the back loops.
Smaller busts: work even in stockinette (knit every round) until work measures about 13 inches total from the cast-on edge, measured at the back, or to about 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches above your waist.
Larger busts only: work even in stockinette (knit every round) for 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches, then work short rows to accommodate your bust, as follows.
Work short rows:
Determine the halfway point between your EOR marker and the near underarm marker. Knit to that point, bring yarn forward, slip stitch, bring yarn back, slip stitch back to left needle. One stitch wrapped. Turn work.
Purl to equidistant point on opposite side. Bring yarn to the back, slip stitch, bring yarn forward, slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work.
Knit to two stitches before wrapped stitch, bring yarn forward, slip stitch, bring yarn back, slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work.
Purl to two stitches before wrapped stitch, bring yarn back, slip stitch, bring yarn forward, slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work.
Repeat this for as many short rows as you wish you work – I recommend three for a D cup, five for DD, seven for F, and so forth. You may wish to adjust how close together the wrapped stitches are to customize the fit even further.
Once you’ve wrapped all the stitches desired, you will begin to work the second half of the ‘pocket’ you are creating for your bust. Knit to the first wrapped stitch and knit it (I prefer to leave the wrap but you may knit the wrap together with the stitch if you prefer). K1, wrap the next stitch (it will now have two wraps). Turn work.
Purl back to first wrapped stitch, purl stitch (without picking up the wrap unless that is your preference). P1, wrap the next stitch. Turn work.
Repeat this until you’ve worked all but the outermost wrapped stitches.
Knit to last wrapped stitch. Knit the stitch and immediately turn your work, then slip the stitch and purl to the final wrapped stitch. Purl the stitch; turn your work, slip the stitch and resume knitting in the round. You may wish to mark both slipped stitches. When you reach them, you will find a gap in your work. Pick up a stitch in the row below and knit it together with the marked stitch. When you have completed the short rows, remove the underarm markers.
Continue until work measures about 13 inches total from the cast-on edge, measured at the back, or to about 1.5 (1.5, 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches above your waist.
All Sweaters: Put all body stitches onto waste yarn or spare circular. (Now is a good time to try on your sweater if you wish! Keep in mind that the neckline may gape a bit until you add the ribbing.) You will now work the sleeves and neck ribbing and then come back to work the body ribbing. This is optional (you may of course finish the body first) but will ensure that you have enough yarn. If you are already on your final skein, simply work from the other end rather than cutting your yarn.
Work sleeve
Place all stitches on size 6 circular. You will be working flat and seaming the sleeves later, to avoid messy joins and underarm holes. Join yarn and work one wrong-side row (purl all stitches). On right side, decrease 18 (18, 20, 20, 28, 30) stitches by working approximately k 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) k2tog across (there will be extra stitches on most sizes, so you may have to fudge it a little). 44 (48, 52, 56, 64, 72) stitches remain.
Switch to size 3 circular and purl back across. Begin 2×2 ribbing (k2 p2). On the right side, ribbing will begin and end with k2; on the wrong side, ribbing will begin and end with p2. This leaves a selvedge stitch on each side for seaming. Work for 1.5 (1.5 2, 2, 2.5, 2.5) inches or to desired length. Bind off with in ribbing pattern size 6 needle and cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to sew up the sleeve – approximately 12-15 inches. Sew seam from cuff to armpit using mattress stitch, closing any gap as you finish off.
Repeat for other sleeve.
Work neckline
With size 3 circular, beginning at the back right shoulder, pick up and knit stitches all the way around the neckline. Pick up one stitch per cast on stitch across the back and shoulders, about three stitches for every four rows along the front edges, and one stitch per cast on stitch across the front, placing a marker at each side of front cast on stitches. Ensure that you end up with an even number of stitches.
Work in the round in 1×1 ribbing (k1 p1), decreasing at the markers as follows:
Work to two stitches before marker and either k2tog or p2tog (whichever follows in pattern). Slip marker, k2tog or p2tog, and continue in pattern. Work three rounds of ribbing, decreasing every round. Bind off in ribbing pattern (unlike for the sleeves and body, I find that this works best with the size 3 needles.)
Optional: You may wish to instead finish the neckline with a crochet crab stitch (see notes for instructions), which would be lovely done in a contrasting color! Please note that this will not draw in the neckline as much as ribbing, so it is not the modest choice.
Finish body
Set up for ribbing (optional): If your waist is particularly small, you may wish to decrease your total stitches by about 10%. This will be about 16 (16, 20, 20, 24, 24) stitches and may be done by k 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7), k2tog around. There may be stitches left over—just be sure to count your final stitches, making sure you end up with a multiple of 4 stitches.
Switch to size 3 needle and work one round plain.
Work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) around. Work even for 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) inches, or to desired length. Bind off in ribbing pattern with size 6 needle.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Steam block if desired.
About the Author
Annika has been knitting for less than five years, but has loved vintage cartoons nearly her entire life. She lives in Los Angeles with a novelist husband and a cartoon-loving son, and she blogs at Through the Looking Glass. You can also find her on Flickr, Twitter, and Ravelry as noirbettie.
Credits
Photos by Annika Barranti and Cassandra Bevers.
Model: Annika Barranti.
From Flickr
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Errata
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License
Babs by
Annika Barranti is licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.
Based on a work at
http://www.popknits.com/index.php/patterns/page/babs/.
