Patterns

Buttercup

by Melissa Wehrle

Buttercup (by popknits)

When designing this sweater, I vaguely had the classic and iconic 50’s sweater girl in mind (bullet bra optional!). Beginning with a fitted cardigan with elbow length sleeves, I then added some fun and kitschy details; like an intarsia trompe l’oeil bow decorated with colorful crochet flowers.

Unlike the wallflower at the archetypal high school dance, this sweater is for the daring girl who wants to stand out from the crowd, make her own rules, and will not take conformity as an answer.

Gauge

23sts/30rws at 4”, St st on US 4 / 3.5mm needles

Sizes and Measurements

XS (S, M, L, XL) shown in size S

Fits (bust size)
32” (34”, 38”, 42”, 46”)/81 (86, 96.5, 106.5, 117)cm
Actual Measurements (bust size)
31” (33”, 37”, 41”, 45”)/79 (84, 94, 104, 114)cm

Materials

Directions

(Popknits uses knittinghelp.com's standard abbreviations)

Please see pattern's other notes.

Back

With smaller straight needles, CC and working tubular long tail cast on for 2×2 rib (see notes), CO 83 (89, 101, 112, 123) sts. Change to MC after rearranging sts from CO and work in 2×2 rib until back meas 2.25in/6cm, ending on a WS row.

Change to larger needles and St st, working next row as a Dec Row.

Dec Row: (RS) K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Rep Dec Row every 10 (12, 12, 16, 16) rows 2 times more – 77 (83, 95, 106, 117) sts.

Work even for 1in/2.5cm, ending on a WS row.

Inc Row: (RS) K1, M1, work to last st, M1, k1. Rep Inc Row every 8 rows 5 times more – 89 (95, 107, 118, 129) sts.

Work even until back meas 12.5 (12.75, 13, 13.5, 13.75)in/32 (32.5, 33, 34.5, 35)cm, ending on a WS row.

Armholes:

At beg of next 2 rows, BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts. Dec 1 st at each edge every row 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, then every RS row 0 (1, 4, 3, 6) times – 73 (75, 81, 88, 91) sts.

Work even until armhole meas 7.25 (7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5)in/18.5 (19, 20, 21, 21.5)cm, ending on a WS row.

Back neck/shoulder shaping:

Buttercup

BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts and work across until there are 11 (11, 13, 15, 15) sts on right-hand needle. Place remaining sts on holder.

Next row (WS): P2tog, work to end of row.

Next row (RS): BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts, work to last 2 sts, k2tog.

Work 1 row even.

BO remaining 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts.

Leaving center 41 (43, 43, 44, 47) sts on holder, rejoin yarn. Work 1 row even.

Next row (WS): BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts, work to end.

Next row (RS): Ssk, work to end.

Next row (WS): BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts, work to last 2 sts, ssp.

Work 1 row even.

BO remaining 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts.

Left Front

With smaller straight needles, CC and working tubular long tail cast on for 2×2 rib (see notes), CO 39 (42, 47, 53, 59) sts. Change to MC after rearranging sts from CO and work in 2×2 rib until left front meas 2.25in/6cm, ending on a WS row.

Change to larger needles and St st, working next row as a Dec Row.

Dec Row: (RS) K1, ssk, work to end. Rep Dec Row every 10 (12, 12, 16, 16) rows 2 times more – 36 (39, 44, 50, 56) sts.

Work even for 1in/2.5cm, ending on a WS row.

On the next row, begin working rows 1 – 62 of Left Front Bow Chart in intarsia (see notes).

Inc Row: (RS) K1, M1, work to end. Rep Inc Row every 8 rows 5 times more – 42 (45, 50, 56, 62) sts.

Work even until left front meas 12.5 (12.75, 13, 13.5, 13.75)in/32 (32.5, 33, 34.5, 35)cm, ending on a WS row.

Armhole:

At beg of next row, BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts. Work 1 row even. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every row 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, then every RS row 0 (1, 4, 3, 6) times – 34 (35, 37, 41, 43) sts.

AT THE SAME TIME, when front meas 16.5 (16.5, 17, 17.75, 18)in/42 (42, 43, 45, 46)cm, ending on a RS row, start working neck shaping as follows:

BO 7 sts, work to end of row. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 9 times, then dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 4 (5, 4, 5, 7) times – 14 (14, 17, 20, 20) sts.

Work even until armhole meas 7.25 (7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5)in/18.5 (19, 20, 21, 21.5)cm, ending on a WS row.

Left Shoulder:

BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row even. Rep last 2 rows 1 time more.

BO rem 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts.

Right Front

Buttercup Front Detail

With smaller straight needles, CC and working tubular long tail cast on for 2×2 rib, CO 39 (42, 47, 53, 59) sts. Change to MC after rearranging sts from CO and work in 2×2 rib until right front meas 2.25in, ending on a WS row.

Change to larger needles and St st, working next row as a Dec Row.

Dec Row: (RS) Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Rep Dec Row every 10 (12, 12, 16, 16) rows 2 times more – 36 (39, 44, 50, 56) sts.

Work even for 1in/2.5cm, ending on a WS row.

On the next row, begin workings rows 1 – 62 of Right Front Bow Chart in intarsia (see notes).

Inc Row: (RS) Work to last st, M1, k1. Rep Inc Row every 8 rows 5 times more – 42 (45, 50, 56, 62) sts.

Work even until right front meas 12.5 (12.75, 13, 13.5, 13.75)in/32 (32.5, 33, 34.5, 35)cm, ending on a RS row.

Armhole

At beg of next row, BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every row 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) times, then every RS row 0 (1, 4, 3, 6) times – 34 (35, 37, 41, 43) sts.

AT THE SAME TIME, when front meas 16.5 (16.5, 17, 17.75, 18)in/42 (42, 43, 45, 46)cm, ending on a WS row, start working neck shaping as follows:

BO 7 sts, work to end of row. Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 9 times, then dec 1 st at neck edge every WS row 4 (5, 4, 5, 7) times- 14 (14, 17, 20, 20) sts.

Work even until armhole meas 7.25 (7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5)in/18.5 (19, 20, 21, 21.5)cm, ending on a RS row.

Right Shoulder

BO 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row even. Rep last 2 rows 1 time more.

BO rem 4 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts.

Sleeves (make 2)

With smaller straight needles, CC and working tubular long tail cast on for 2×2 rib (see notes), CO 48 (48, 51, 58, 61) sts. Change to MC after rearranging sts from CO and work in 2×2 rib until sleeve meas 2.25in/6cm, ending on a WS row.

Change to larger needles and St st, working next row as an Inc Row.

Inc Row: (RS) K1, M1, work to last st, M1, k1. Rep Inc Row every 10 (8, 6, 6, 6) rows 1 (6, 1, 3, 9) times more. Then work Inc Row every 12 (10, 8, 8, 8) rows 4 (1, 7, 6, 1) time(s) – 60 (64, 69, 78, 83) sts.

Work even until sleeve meas 11 (11, 11.5, 12, 12.25)in/28 (28, 29, 30.5,31)cm.

Sleeve Cap
At the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 5 (6, 6, 8, 8) sts. Dec 1 st at each edge every row 0 (3, 3, 3, 3) times, every RS row 4 (3, 3, 4, 4) times, every 4th row 6 (5, 5, 4, 4) times, every RS row 0 (2, 3, 4, 5) times, and every row 5 (3, 5, 5, 5) times.

At the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 2 sts. Then BO rem 16 (16, 17, 18, 21) sts.

Finishing

Block all pieces to correct measurements. Sew shoulder seams together. Set in sleeve caps. Sew underarm and side seams together.

Buttercup (flat)

Button band

With circular needle and RS of left front facing, pick up and knit 98 (98, 100, 104, 106) sts. Work in 2×2 rib for 7 rows. BO all sts in rib pattern.

Buttonhole band

With circular needle and RS of right front facing, pick up and knit 98 (98, 100, 104, 106) sts. Work in 2×2 rib for 3 rows.

Buttonholes:
Work 2 (2, 4, 2, 4) sts, *yfwd, sl 1 purlwise, (BO 1, sl 1) 3 times, sl last st back to left needle. Turn work. CO 4 sts with cable cast on (see notes). Turn work. Sl st from left needle to right needle and sl 2nd to last st over to BO. Sl last st back to left needle. Work 13 (13, 13, 14, 14) sts in rib pattern. Rep from * 5 times more.

Work 3 more rows in 2×2 rib. BO all sts in rib pattern.

Neck band

With circular needle and RS of work facing, pick up and knit 40 (42, 42, 44, 47) sts from left front, 5 sts from left back neck, 41 (43, 43, 44, 47) sts from holder, 5 sts from right back neck, and 40 (42, 42, 44, 47) sts from right front – 131 (137, 137, 142, 151) sts. Work in 2×2 rib for 3 rows.

Buttonhole:
Work 2 sts, yfwd, sl 1 purlwise, (BO 1, sl 1) 3 times, sl last st back to left needle. Turn work. CO 4 sts with cable cast on (see notes). Turn work. Sl st from left needle to right needle and sl 2nd to last st over to BO. Sl last st back to left needle. Work in rib pattern to end.

Work 3 more rows in 2×2 rib. BO all sts in rib pattern.

Small Crochet Flower (make 7)

Rnd 1: With 1st color, ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st to 1st sc. Cut yarn.
Rnd 2: With 2nd color, ch 2, [(1 dc, ch 2, sl st) in the same sc. Ch 2, move to next sc.] 5 times. Cut yarn leaving long enough tail to sew to sweater.

Large Crochet Flower (make 2)

Rnd 1: With 1st color, ch2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st to 1st sc. Cut yarn.
Rnd 2: With 2nd color, ch 2, [(3 dc, ch 2, sl st) in the same sc. Ch2, move to next sc.] 5 times. Cut yarn leaving long enough tail to sew to sweater.

Sew crochet flowers onto the bow randomly.

Weave in all ends.

Schematic

Buttercup (schematic)

Chart

Buttercup - Right Front BowButtercup - Left Front Bow
Click on each image to see larger size on Flickr or..
Download this chart as a PDF

Other Notes

The bow pattern is worked in intarsia. Each separate color section will need a separate ball of yarn or a yarn bobbin for smaller sections. When picking up one color and dropping the other, make sure to twist the yarns together to avoid holes at the color change. Intarsia tutorial: http://sweaterscapes.com/intars.htm

Long tail tubular cast on for 2×2 rib: video can be found here: http://ysolda.com/wordpress/pictorial-guides/double-rib-tubular-cast-on/

Cable cast on: video: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on

Because cotton yarn does not always stay put after weaving in the ends, a small amount of Fray Check may be used on the inside to help secure the yarn ends.

About the Author

Melissa Wehrle

Melissa is a full-time knitwear designer in NYC. In her spare time, she is the Creative Director of One Planet Yarn and Fiber and designs hand knit patterns for her own line – neoknits. Her blog can be found at http://neoknits.blogspot.com.

Credits

Photos by David Bryan Lombard
Model: Melissa Wehrle

From Flickr

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Errata

There are no reported errors in this pattern. Found something? Please Contact Us.

About Popknits

Over the past few years, knitting vintage items has become popular again. Whether the item is a revamped sweater from the pages of Vogue Knitting 1955 or a new take on doily patterns as shawls, vintage knitting is taking a modern turn. Inspired by the thrift store finds sitting on our bookshelves, Popknits challenges you to take a new look at all things that have come before.

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