This pattern is sponsored by Brooklyn Handspun.
My mother’s dear friend Priscilla was an excellent knitter. When I learned to knit at a young age, she guided me through my first sweater. She also gave me a vintage stitch dictionary which has been my bible though the years. This woven stitch caught my eye for a winter sock that would hold firm against the cold. Not intended to knit in the round, this stitch pattern has been adapted with a little ingenuity.
Gauge
28sts/37rws at 4” in Woven stitch on US 2/2.75mm needles
Sizes and Measurements
7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) shown in size 8
Fits foot size
6 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)
Materials
- Brooklyn Handspun Soft Spun Plus [100% merino superwash wool, 375yd / 343m per 113g skein]; color: Turq; 1 (1,1, 1, 1,1) skeins
- US 2 / 2.75mm standard double-pointed needles
- Waste yarn
- Darning needle (for finishing)
- Cable needle (optional)
Directions
(Popknits uses knittinghelp.com's standard abbreviations)
Please see pattern's other notes.
Special Stitch Instructions
Woven Stitch (multiple of 2)
Row 1: *K the second st tbl, K the first st, pull both sts off the needle at the same time. * Rep from * to *.
Row 2: K1, *Slip the next 2 sts onto the right needle. Insert the tip of the left needle into the back of the first slipped st. Pinch both slipped sts securely. Slide the right needle back to leave the second slipped sts dangling for a moment, and reinsert the right needle into it. Place the second slipped st (just crossed) onto the left-handed needle. K2. * Rep from * to *.
See a short demonstration of this stitch below:
Toe
Cast on 26 (28,30,32, 34, 36) sts using Wendy Johnson’s Short Row Toe Method (Excerpt taken from this site)
Row 1: Knit 25 (27, 29,31, 33, 35) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to purl and slip the last stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work.
Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch and purl across the next 23 (25, 27,29, 31, 33) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn.
Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.
Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 8 (9,10,10,11,12) of the toe stitches are wrapped and on left side, 10 (10,10,12,12,12) stitches are “live” in the middle, and 8 (9,10,10,11,12) are wrapped and on the right. At this stage, you should be ready to work a right side row. Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock toe to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows.
Now work the second half of the toe:
Row 1: Knit across the live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. On the next stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the wrapped stitch. Note: the wrap sits almost horizontal around the vertical stitch. Put your needle through the horizontal wrap, then the vertical stitch, and then knit the two together.
Wrap the next stitch [so that it now has two wraps] and turn.
Row 2: Slip the first [double-wrapped] stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the wrapped stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.
On subsequent rows you will pick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 26 (28,30,32, 34, 36) “live” stitches.
Divide the 26 (28,30,32, 34, 36) stitches over 2 dpns.
Undo the cast-off end of your crocheted chain. Stick the point of the third dpn in the stitch below the chain. Unzip the chain one stitch at a time, as you stick the tip of the needle in each stitch, moving each stitch onto the needle. Divide these 24 stitches over the third and fourth dpns.
There will be 52 (56,60,64, 68, 72) sts total
Foot
On needles 1 and 2, work Woven stitch. On needles 3 and 4 purl all stitches. Continue to desired length of heel. End with Row 2 of Woven stitch.
Heel
Short Row heel:
On the right side, work across needles 3 and 4 until you’ve worked all normal stitches, then turn work and make a backwards yarnover by bringing the yarn from behind over the needle to form the first purl stitch. Knit across until you’ve worked all normal stitches. Then turn work and make a backwards yarnover by bringing the yarn from the front to the back over the needle to form the first knit stitch.
Continue in this fashion until you have 10 (10,10,12,12,12) unwrapped sts between the wrapped sts.
To complete the heel, use MisoCrafty’s short Row Heel tutorial as a guide if needed. (Excerpt taken from this site)
Once you have all your stitches wrapped you are ready to pick up the first wrap. Purl to the first wrap on the right side. Pick up the wrap. (The first row is the only time you will only have one wrap to pick up.) Leave this wrap you picked up on the right needle and knit the wrapped stitch like normal. You now have the purled stitch, then the picked up wrap on your right needle. Take the slipped wrapped stitch, with your left needle and pass it over the purled stitch.
While still working purl side up, slip the next stitch that has been wrapped once and wrap it again.
Now you turn your work, you will have the knit side facing you. Knit across this row till you reach the first wrapped stitch. Pick up this wrap from the bottom up and again hold it on your right needle.
Repeat the same wrap steps from the other side. Hold the wrap on the right needle and this time knit the wrapped stitch. Then pass the wrap over. Now do a second wrap on the next stitch and turn.
Keep in the same manner, row after row until all the wrapped stitches are incorporated. The only change you are going to make after the first two rows is you will be picking up two wraps on each stitch instead of one.
Leg
Continue to work only needles 1 and 2 in Woven stitch, continuing with Row 1. Work only needles 3 and 4 sts as follows:
Worked across 26 (28,30,32, 34, 36) sts:
Row 1: p4(5,5,6,6,7), k1,p1,k1, p4(4,5,5,6,6), k5, p4(4,5,5,6,6), k1,p1, k1, p3(4,4,5,5,6)
Row 2: work same as Row 1, working all sts as they appear.
Row 3: p4(5,5,6,6,7), p1,k1,p1, p4(4,5,5,6,6) M1 by knitting into the back of the loop below the next st, k1, p3tog,k1, M1 by knitting into the loop below the next st, p4(4,5,5,6,6), p1,k1, p1, p3(4,4,5,5,6)
Work stitch patterns on needles 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 until desired length to the end of the leg.
Cuff
K1,P1 for 10 rounds. Bind off very loosely
Finishing
Weave in ends and block using desired method.
Other Notes
The number of stitches indicated on the toe up cast on is half the number of total sock stitches. Please feel free to use any toe-up cast on preferred.
The second row to the Woven stitch will have one remainder stitch at the end of the row. This stitch may be worked over to the first stitch on needle 3.
About the Author
Virginia was taught to knit by her mother at 12 years old. She has been making things ever since. This is her first published original design. She is the mother of four cats and resides with her yarn and her man in Brooklyn. She blogs regularly about knitting and her many other crafty hobbies at http://www.virginiaisforknitters.com.
Credits
Photos by Ovidiu Stoica
Model: Gabbe Grodin
From Flickr
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Errata
There are no reported errors in this pattern. Found something? Please Contact Us.
License
Priscilla’s Slippers by
Virginia Riker is licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.
Based on a work at
http://www.popknits.com/index.php/patterns/page/priscillas_slippers/.
